During preparations for my 2024 trip to Nova Scotia, and after my arrival, I kept hearing that Philippe Mius d’Entremont built his castle or manor house on the east side of Pubnico Harbor, someplace near Hipson’s Bridge.
Clearly, visiting that location was a priority. After all, Philippe Mius’s 1653 land grant was where it all began for the Pubnico’s Acadian families.
However, based on older maps and mileage measurements, Hipson’s Bridge is not the only potential location, so I visited other candidate sites, too.
It’s clear that Philippe’s feifdom wasn’t just limited to one “place,” even though he built his home or manor house in some specific location. This entire area constituted his barony, as we discussed in the articles Philippe Mius d’Entremont (c1609-c1700): Baron de Pobomcoup and King’s Attorney and Philippe Mius d’Entremont (c1609-1700): Returning Home to Pubnico.
One way or another, by the time I left Pubnico, I had probably been “there,” to or at least near his manor house, wherever “there” actually is.
With the dawning of my seventh day in Acadia, I was ready to search for Philippe Mius d’Entremont, so buckle up and come along with me on my great adventure!
Red Sky in the Morning
I’m not a morning person, but the sunrise this morning was stunning, a beautiful invitation to whatever the day brings. Hipson’s Bridge lies straight across the harbour from where I was staying, so if that’s where Philippe’s manor house stood, I’m looking at it.
Unfortunately, the outer bands of Hurricane Debby were arriving.
Red sky at night, sailors’ delight.
Red sky in the morning, sailors take warning.
I wrapped up in my slicker and headed for Hipson’s Bridge, about five miles away, on the other side of the Harbour, almost exactly where that sun was rising. Was it a welcome or a warning?
It’s hard to believe that just two and a half miles north of the old post office, the VRBO where I was staying, and also about that same distance from Hipson’s Bridge, this tidal stream becomes Pubnico Harbour which is about two miles across, two miles further south. Some early maps referred to this area that we call a harbour as a river.
Philippe’s Manor House
What do we know about Philippe’s manor house? In other words, what are we looking for?
The Acadian Museum in Pubnico states in an article written by Father Clarence d’Entremont that Philippe Mius d’Entremont’s manor house was located on the east side of Pubnico Harbour, a short distance from the head, and that it incorporates all of today’s English section, from Pubnico Head to the limits of the Acadian village of East Pubnico, stretching in the woods beyond Great Pubnico Lake, even up to the Barrington River.
The “headquarters” of the barony was located just north of Hipson’s Brook, known also locally as Larkin’s Brook, Trout Brook or Caleb’s Brook, near the shore at about 200 meters south of the road commonly called the Nine Mile Road, which leads to Barrington.
There, on what the Rev. John Roy Campbell, in his History of the County of Yarmouth calls “a beautiful knoll”, was built just a few years before the Expulsion a Chapel, to which was given the name of “Notre-Dame”. But long before that time, a manor house was built by Philippe Mius d’Entremont, at a short distance from the hill, opposite to the shore, which measured 35 meters and one third in length and close to 13 meters and a half in width. Not too many years ago, one could feel under his feet what remained of its foundation. Over the main entrance was suspended the Coat of Arms of the Mius d’Entremont family, the only Acadian family to ever have given itself such an emblem, a copy of which has been handed down to us up to this day.
I sure wish Rev. Campbell had shared more specific information about the location. As in, maybe a map. However, we do have a description of sorts.
Philippe’s manor house was about 116 feet long by 45 feet wide. That’s absolutely massive for that time and place. At 5220 square feet, it was larger than most contemporary homes.
Acadian Homes
Most Acadian homes during that time period were about 20X20, or about 400 square feet. Some were significantly smaller and housed entire large families, often with a dozen or more people.
The reconstructed Acadian home in the beautiful Historical Gardens in Annapolis Royal measures about 18X18 feet.
Several foundations of original Acadian homes have been located.
- One of the foundations excavated at the Savoie homestead at BelleIsle measured 10X10.
- Another foundation nearby was 24X30, but consisted of two foundations built one over the other, following a fire.
- The foundation I found on the Lord/Lore homesite was about 12X15ish, and certainly clearly discernible in the field.
- A foundation at the Melanson settlement measured about 20X22.
- A home in the town of Port Royal was about 22X29, but many of those residences also functioned as businesses.
- The largest elite home in Port Royal, the seat of government, measured about 22X44.
The d’Entremont’s Manor House, which would have been appropriate for nobility, was MUCH larger.
All things considered, Philippe’s manor house was about 12 times larger than the typical Acadian home, meaning one could fit about two rows of six Acadian homes in the manor house footprint.
Noble Homes
Philippe may have been minor nobility, but he was nobility just the same, and he apparently wanted his manor to reflect his status. In Acadia, he was the only noble other than Charles St. Etienne LaTour who conferred that noble title upon Philippe when granting his seigneury in 1653.
Based on the manor’s description and the French homes of the time, I would also expect the building to be two stories, so about 10,400 square feet. Typical French manor homes of the period dedicated the ground floor to public life and hosting. In an Acadian scenario, this would have been where business deals were negotiated, and trading occurred.
The second floor was where the family slept.
There was often a third-story attic where servants slept, and a vaulted stone cellar, but it’s unclear if a traditional cellar would have been an option in Pubnico.
Regardless, there would only have been one building with a footprint of 116×45 feet, so that foundation should be easy to identify, if or when it’s located.
This must have felt at least somewhat strange to Philippe. In France, a manor house would have been located among the peasant farms whose tenants paid rent to the seigneur. It would have been surrounded by the hustle and bustle of agriculture and perhaps a village as well. People came and went, social functions were held, and the priest celebrated Mass in the church every Sunday. The manor home was a status symbol, recognized and understood by all who saw it, and treated accordingly.
In Acadia, there were no other European families. No one paying taxes or rent to the seigneur. No one except the occasional trader and the Native families who were probably more baffled than impressed by their European neighbor who built a fixed stone house in one place rather than a dwelling that could easily be packed up and moved when necessary.
So, Philippe built his noble manor house, but aside from the occasional visitor arriving by ship, there was no one to appreciate it or understand what it meant.
Hipson’s Bridge
Hipson’s Bridge itself is no longer in use, barricaded to traffic at both ends, and the contemporary highway skirts just to the left of the original road.
The entrance is marked with a memorial to fishermen lost at sea.
It stands as a reminder about how dangerous working on those boats and living beside the sea can be.
Hipson’s Bridge itself is beautiful, a marvel of stoneworking, and there’s a nice picnic area to the right of the bridge.
The bridge was built in 1900 along the main road on the east side of the Harbour. This site is certainly beautiful.
Along the fence row hung flags and signs with Acadian names relevant to the Pubnico area, including both Muise and d’Entremont, of course. D’Entremont is much more common than Mius, by any spelling, here. That’s because Philippe Mius d’Entremont’s eldest son, Jacques, who used d’Entremont for his surname, became the second Baron of Pobomcoup (Pubnico) and much, if not most, of the population descends from him.
The summer of 2024 marked the Congrès mondial acadien (CMA), known as the World Acadian Congress, a Nova Scotia-wide cultural celebration held every five years. It includes various family reunions that occur independently and are scattered across Nova Scotia in locations where Acadians once lived. In Pubnico, it’s where Acadians still live.
By the time I arrived at Hipson’s Bridge, the sky had clouded over, and gusty winds combined with intermittent rain were the forecast for the day. You can see those flags snapping back and forth.
We don’t know if Philippe Mius’s manor house was located here, or near here, but one thing is certain, based on the discovery of a millstone – some mill was located here. This entire area was his seigneury, and the only mill of record is the d’Entremont mill, noted in 1699.
The creek viewed from on top of Hipson’s Bridge.
Mills must be built on streams with enough drop to power a mill wheel or fill a mill pond for the same purpose, and close enough to the population of farmers who need their grain ground, providing convenient access.
Looking at the terrain, both across the harbour and along the east side of the harbour, it’s easy to see why this location, marked with a red arrow, was selected. It was also high enough that the mill would not be affected by high tides.
You can see the contrast by looking at the photo of this bubbling brook compared to the brown tidal estuary we crossed at the head of Pubnico Harbour just two miles or so further north.
Reviewing the other brooks on both sides of the harbour, this seems to be the only reasonable location with the exception of the river at the top of the harbour – but it’s heavily tidal, which would eliminate it from consideration.
Had the mill belonged to the English settlers who arrived after the Acadians had been removed, surely those records would remain – and the mill would not have been destroyed. When the English forcibly removed the Acadians from this part of Nova Scotia in 1758, they burned everything so that those who had escaped into the woods would not be able to return and support themselves.
Ted d’Eon, on his website, here, described his 1997 discovery and removal of the millstone from a tidal pool in Hipson Brook between the railway bridge and the stone bridge, and graciously shares his photos.
You can see both Hipson’s Bridge and the railway bridge, marked with a red arrow, above. They’re really only a few yards apart, and the brook meanders between the two.
It’s worth noting that there were two stones recovered. One was fractured, and likely discarded for that reason, and the second is anything but round and not flat. All things considered, it’s hard to imagine what else they could have been or why they would be here if the mill wasn’t here or nearby. This brook appears to be the best, if not the only, reasonable choice for powering a water mill.
Ted donated the millstone to the museum at Pubnico.
I emailed Ted before traveling to the area, but didn’t receive a reply, so I gathered all of the information available and prepared to visit the location for myself, beginning with the museum.
The sign in the Acadian Museum in Pubnico states:
This stone from an old grist mill was discovered in East Pubnico in 1997. Welsh archaeologist Christine Yeats had noticed it in a brook and it fell to Pubnico history enthusiasts Real d’Entremont and Ted d’Eon to pull it from the tidal pool. It is almost certainly from the mill that was in that area – part of the barony of Philippe Mius d’Entremont – back in the 17th century. Sieur de Villebon who visited Pombcoup (Pubnico Harbour) in 1688 recorded that there were 80 bushels of wheat to be milled at the d’Entremont grist mill.
Please note that the 1688 date appears to be a typo. The Parks Canada translation by Margaret Coleman of Villebon’s journal states that he visited multiple Acadian sites in 1699, not 1688, which was prior to Villebon’s tenure as Governor from 1690-1700.
In the book Acadia at the End of the 17th Century: Letters, Journals and Memoirs of Joseph Robineau de Villebon, Commandant in Acadia, 1690-1700, and Other Contemporary Documents, translated by John Clarence Webster, we find the following translation, on page 134:
Villebon was traveling south along the coast from Port Royal
Eleven leagues south south-east from the Grand Passage is Cap Fouchu.
It has a fair harbor and the cod appear there early, and fishing begins at the end of March. Good gardens can be made there, and there is plenty of hay for livestock, and grain sufficient to load more than 100 shallops.
From Cape Fouchu, on the same course, the Isles de Tousquet are 3 leagues away. Half way is a river with much meadow-land; its entrance is suitable for moderate sized vessels, and it has a good beach. From the Isles de Tousquet, the Rivière de Pomoncoup is five leagues east north-east. The soil along this river is fertile, and there is good fishing within sight of land. One of the sons of the Sr. d’Entremont lives there with his wife and eight children. When the Sr. de Villebon visited him in the spring, the peas and the wheat were well up; he has 30 horned cattle, 3 sheep and 18 pigs; also a water-mill.
From Pomoncoup to Cap Sable it is only five leagues south ¼ south-east. There, fishing is abundant. Four or five leagues off shore to the eastward, are the Isles aux Loups-marins; only four of them are wooded and the fourth (sic) is a rock. A fairly extensive killing of seals can be made on this rock, as well as on the island which lies farthest out to sea.
Inside the Cap de Sable Islands is the Passage de Bacareau, where a settler lives with his wife and seven children. He grows grain enough for his own needs, and has six horned cattle. There is land enough there for five or six more families.
From Cap de Sable it is three leagues east north-east to port Latour which can be entered by vessels of moderate size. There is a good beach and fine fishing within sight of the harbor.
Passage de Bacareau is spelled Baccaro and is now called Barrington.
I did not find any references to 80 bushels of grain waiting to be milled, but that’s very specific to be an error. Perhaps it came from another source.
Using Villebon’s distances, it appears that it’s:
- 5.25 leagues or 18 statute miles from Pobomcoup to Cape Sable
- Another 3 leagues, or another 10 statute miles from Cap de Sable to Port LaTour, for a total of 28 miles.
- About 6 miles or 22 miles based on Margaret Coleman’s document quoting the 1686 description of the distance from Poubonicoeur to Cape Sable
- If what was meant by Cape Sable was actually the end of Cape Sable Island, then the distance from Hipson’s Bridge is about 22 miles, or 6 leagues.
- If by Cape Sable, they means Fort LaTour, then the distance from Hipson’s Bridge to Fort LaTour measures 12 miles further. or about 34 miles.
- It’s about 28 miles from Fort LaTour to the mouth of Pubnico Harbour.
It’s about 22 miles from Hipson’s Bridge to the end of Cape Sable Island – or about 6 leagues.
It’s about 34 miles from Hipson’s Bridge to Fort LaTour, and about the same distance if you sail north of Cape Sable Island instead of south around the tip.
Villebon was accurate in that it was about 11 miles from the end of Cape Sable Island to Fort LaTour.
Measuring 28 miles from Fort LaTour into Pubnico Harbour would be right around the lighthouse which is the entrance to Pubnico Harbour.
This article by Father Clarence d’Entremont, part of the series published in 1989 and 1990, provides additional information about the Mius Barony.
It was located on the east side of Pubnico harbour, at a short distance from the head. Its dimensions, according to the grant, of which we still have a copy, was rather restricted, if we consider that, at the time, the vast territory of what is now Nova Scotia had only one other settlement of consequence, that of Port Royal. It bordered the harbour for a distance of one league, which at the time was equal to two miles and a half or four kilometers; and extended in the woods for a distance of four leagues, that is nine miles or fourteen kilometers and a half. It must have comprised all of today’s English section, from the limits of Pubnico Head to the limits of the Acadian village of East Pubnico, stretching in the woods beyond Great Pubnico Lake, even up to Barrington River.
I mapped out reviewed the varioius possibilities of the boundaries of Philippe’s land, here.
At this point, Father d’Entremont discussed the Manor being built on the beautiful knoll, and elaborated about a cemetery.
Closer to the foot of the hill was the burying ground. When the railroad which passed through this section was built in 1896-97, a certain number of skeletons were unearthed. With regard to the tombstones, which surely consisted merely of field stones with some inscriptions on them, they had already been taken to build what was called “Jones Wharf”, about 300 meters south.
I wish very much that Father d’Entremont had said more specifically why he believed that Hipson’s Brook was where the Mius Manor House was located.
The next question – where is or was Jones Wharf? If we had that answer, we could measure backward to the location of the cemetery. I can’t find any hint of Jones Wharf today, but local records might be fruitful, or locals might know the answer.
300 meters is about 984 feet or just under one-fifth of a mile. On the map above, it looks like Jones Wharf might have been that round green thing extending into the water, but there seems to be nothing there today. We know the cemetery was beside the “knoll” near today’s rail trail. But where is the knoll being referenced?
Maybe I’m not measuring from the proper location. Maybe the knoll is where those houses are built.
There are slight rises marked by the two red arrows on the Google terrain map. But that doesn’t look like a knoll, although it is assuredly beautiful there.
The center of the peninsula to the left of Hipson’s Bridge and the rail trail, circled here, looks raised and rounded. In other words – a knoll.
You can see that knoll, above, from the northern end of the rail trail bridge. A structure in this location would be very visible from within the harbour. And there would be no question what one was seeing.
Other raised areas appear on the terrain map directly across the harbour, on the west side, as well.
According to the photos on this sign, taken in 1900, there was a church and village here at one time.
Today, you can see these same structures across the road from the bridge, but the 1900 era church is gone.
It’s possible that the bones were from a cemetery beside or near that church. People had to be buried someplace. However, you’d think that the locals would know if the burials were from the post-1758 English settlers. Cemeteries in villages are seldom “lost.” The Old Cemetery in Lower West Pubnico near the end of the end of the peninsula on the west side of the harbour dates to after the return of the Acadians in 1767, and it’s not lost.
If the Mius Manor House was originally built in the location of this little village south of Hipson Bridge, on an atoll, then surely, its remnants are still there and could be found? Why did Father d’Entremont and other locals not locate it? He clearly wanted to solve this as much or more than anyone else. It’s also worth noting that this is south, not north of Hipson’s Bridge, while the circled atoll is north of the bridge.
Archaeology
I viewed the documentary, “a scattering of seeds, The Creation of Canada” in which Father d’Entremont, while walking where he believes d’Entremont Manor and church once stood, stated that searches and excavations had been conducted, and that “nothing conclusive” was found. I could hear the exasperation in his voice. Ted d’Eon was featured in that production as well, discussing the fruitless archaeological test pits. Unfortunately, from the video, I can’t tell exactly where they are.
One thing about archaeology digs, and I’ve participated in several, you don’t have to be far off the mark to miss the mark entirely. Still, if this was a manor house that stood for over a century, with a mill which suggests an active trading and commerce area, which would probably have needed a wharf, you’d think that the archaeological excavations would have found “something,” even if not the foundation they sought. Still, they came up empty-handed with no sign of settlement. No pottery fragments, no cultural features, no sign of fire – nothing. In archaeological parlance, this is referred to as “a sterile pit.”
The millstone was the first, and apparently only, breakthrough, so far – nearly 30 years ago.
Historical Records
Assuming this is the location of the Mius d’Entremont mill – just because the mill is located here doesn’t mean the manor house was. Philippe didn’t start out grinding grain. It was his son, Jacques, nearly half a century later, in 1699, who we know had a mill. That meant he owned the mill, not that he lived there.
The manor house could have been built elsewhere, and the mill added on the only reasonable stream sometime later, when they began to grow grains and needed a mill
In the 1671 census, 18 years after being awarded the land grant and barony, Philippe Mius d’Entremont only owned livestock and had no land under cultivation. His was the only home in Pobomcoup.
By the 1686 census, Philippe had passed the seigneury to his eldest son, Jacques, who would have been living in the manor house. He only had 3 arpents of land under cultivation.
There were 6 households listed, with a total of 15 people and only 7 arpents of cultivated land altogether. The land would have produced salt marsh wheat, which would need to be ground.
There are still 7 households in 1693, but no land is listed under cultivation at Cape Sable. The same families live there as did in 1686, so we know it’s the same location. Land under cultivation is listed for other census locations, but I’d wager that cultivated land in Pobomcoup was nearly inconsequential, considering the size of the barony, about 3.5 by 22 miles, essentially all of Pubnico Harbour and the surrounding land, compared to the miniscule amount of land being cultivated.
Based on Ted d’Eon’s reports and that of the archaeologist, the mill wheel was found in a tidal pool between Hipson’s Bridge with the red balloon, and the railway bridge, which is now a rail trail. In this satellite view, you can see the tidal pools between the two.
In an article written by Father Clarence d’Entremont, published in the Yarmouth Vanguard in August, 1989, we find the following information about the 1758 Expulsion of Acadians and destruction of Pubnico by the English:
Next day, the 17th, Captain Watmough took through the woods towards Pubnico. Having noticed an agglomeration of houses on the east side of the harbour, he came right back to tell [Major Roger] Morris about it. Morris, after destroying the gardens where he was, left Frost Corner, and at noon, September 20th he anchored his Fleet smack in the middle of Pubnico Harbour.
Immediately after disembarking, they started to follow the trail that they had found of the Acadians, leading to Pubnico Head and about five miles further in the woods, till they lost their trace. Not being able to find the Acadians, Morris sent a hundred men on the west side of the harbour where they had spotted two houses on the elevation where is located the Old Cemetery. They burned those houses and ravaged the gardens adjoining them. This was taking place of (sic) Friday, the 22nd. Next day, they proceeded to pillage the village in East Pubnico and to ransack all the buildings, including the Church, the priest’s rectory and the Manor House of the d’Entremont family, all being located north of Hipson’s Brook, also all the other houses, barns and sheds. After devastating all the cultivated gardens, Morris embarked most of his men, leaving to Gorham the task to set everything of fire. By 11 o’clock that morning, all had been consumed.
Father d’Entremont clearly believed the Manor house was here, north of Hipson’s Bridge, part of or maybe the center of that “agglomeration of houses.”. I wish he had shared his source, sources, or reasoning for that conclusion. I would very much like to see the original documents as well. He had to have found them someplace.
Regardless, I wanted to see as much as possible for myself. Certainly, something of Philippe had been anchored here.
Hiking the Rail Trail
Mom and I set off to walk this area, following the rail trail for a better vantage point. Mom’s ancestors were Acadian, including Philippe, and I wore her ring throughout this journey. It was my way of taking her “home.” I wish I could have done that in person.
Standing on the south side of Hipson’s Bridge, the dark red bridge over the rail trail is shown spanning the creek, with Pubnico Harbour visbile beyond. It would have been someplace here where the millstone was recovered.
Fortunately, access to the rail trail is easy and well-maintained.
The elevation of the rail trail provided an unobstructed view of the harbour and surrounding area.
I wonder if the rise in elevation where the trees are growing was where the manor house and other buildings, such as the church named “Notre Dame”, were located at one time. If the pre-Expulsion Acadians had a church here, with a consecrated cemetery, why didn’t they continue to use this cemetery after their return in 1767?
This is the knoll on the terrain maps, but is the “knoll” to the far right of that tree line the one referred to by Rev. Campbell? Is that where the foundation of a building could still be felt beneath one’s feet in the late 1800s?
While there’s no question that a mill stood someplace here, probably slightly further upstream, that doesn’t necessarily mean that Philippe Mius’s home stood in the same location. There’s also nothing to eliminate the possibility.
A better view of the knoll in the distance, across the salt marsh? Was the manor house here, or near here?
Was that the area, closer to the railroad tracks, where the skeletal remains were found?
This view, from just above, or north of Hipson’s Bridge, on part of the knoll, provides a panoramic view of the entire harbour, Philippe’s domain, if you zoom in.
In the documentary, Ted showed where the millstone was recovered and where they were searching for the manor house. He said the area in the oval, above, had been searched because the property owner had noticed some unusual stones that appeared to be displaced. Ted said they found nothing there.
A mill needs to have a mill pond or enough continuous, rapid water movement to power the wheel. If this was the location of the d’Entremont Mill, it would have had to be located someplace on this brook, far enough upstream to be out of reach of the tides, and with enough downward water pressure to turn the mill wheel. One would be looking for the remnants of the mill dam and the adjacent foundation of the mill itself. It’s also possible that the construction of either Hipson’s Bridge, the railroad, or the contemporary highway destroyed that evidence.
There wasn’t much left to see here without trespassing on private property, and I wasn’t about to do that. That said, I would have loved to walk that knoll just above and west of Hipson’s Bridge.
We don’t know where Philippe Mius d’Entremont is buried, although it’s believed to be at Grand Pre where his only daughter settled, and with whom it’s supposed he lived in his elder years. His wife died sometime between 1671 and 1678, and she is probably buried in the Pobomcoup cemetery, possibly right here. If not, she’s buried in Port Royal. They likely had children whose names we don’t know who were born and died here.
Philippe’s son, Jacques d’Entremont, the second Baron of Pobomcoup, his wife and assuredly some of their children are buried here too. Two of their grandchildren who returned from Massachusetts after the Expulsion and didn’t pass away until 1841 would clearly have known where the original Mius d’Entremont Cemetery and manor house were located.
It was time to say goodbye here and head south on the picturesque road along the harbour.
Pubnico Lighthouse
Driving along the appropriately named Lighthouse Route, we come to the location of the original Pubnico lighthouse.
If Philippe Mius was going to build on a location that protruded into the harbour, this might be a site to consider. It is just inside the mouth, and is still somewhat sheltered. The bad news is that there’s a lighthouse because there are rocks and underwater obstructions. However, you’d still have to navigate past them sailing further north into the harbour to reach Hipson’s Bridge.
You can see the lighthouse on a spit of land through the picturesque Acadian “frame.”
Looking across the mouth of the harbour, just south of the lighthouse, with the Pubnico Wind Farm on the far southern tip of the Pubnico peninsula visible across the water.
Truthfully, I think this area is too exposed to the elements to build a manor house, but then, I’m not Philippe Mius.
The entrance to Pubnico Harbour on a marine chart looks a lot like threading a needle. Imagine trying to navigate this area without a chart like this. There are lots of rocks and mud. Of course, canoes would probably be fine, but this makes me question the viability of trading with New England at a location inside Pubnico Harbour.
That said, in 1758, Major Morris reportedly anchored his fleet “smack dab in the middle of Pubnico Harbour.” The distinctive manor house should have been immediately visible to him. Unfortunately, he failed to tell us where that was.
Does it say someplace in contemporaneous records that the soldiers ransacked and plundered the manor house and church, or do we presume that because we know that’s what soldiers did? Sometimes the smallest nuances, and where they appear in historical text, can make a big difference.
Looking back at the distance from Fort La Tour, where Charles St. Etienne LaTour lived, which was stated to be six leagues (22 miles), the lighthouse location is about 5.5 miles closer than Hipson’s Bridge. But still, at 29 miles, it was still probably too distant. Hipson’s Bridge is 35 miles from Fort LaTour, and six leagues is about 22 miles.
However, using Villebon’s distance number, it should be about 28 miles from Port LaTour to Pubnico, which is closer to Lower West Pubnico or above the Lighthouse than to Hipson’s bridge.
Following the Coastline
Whether Philippe built here or not, this was still his land, his beautiful domain, and I wanted to drink it all in.
Along the road, I discovered some very Acadian-looking salt marshes. This one even has a very cute little bridge crossing the creek.
Acadians, familiar with managing marshes in the Poiteau, would have been drawn to this land like moths to a flame.
Continuing my drive along Central Woods Harbour which opens more directly into the sea.
Several large commercial fishing businesses call this coastline home. This makes sense, especially given that access to the sea seems to be less fraught here.
Viewing areas south of the Pubnico Lighthouse, along Forbes Point, along Woods Harbour south of Forbes Point, and on until the southern point of Shag Harbour turns east. These coastlines seem much safer for access. There are several at least somewhat protected harbours there.
By comparison, the red arrow above shows the location of the French fort La Have built earlier and further east along the Nova Scotia coastline. There’s a deep channel with relatively unobstructed access to the open sea, yet there are sheltering islands. This area, along with others, has been subject to severe coastal erosion over time.
I kept driving south along the picturesque shore.
Shag Harbour
WHOA!!!
Rounding Shag Harbour, I made a VERY unexpected discovery!
A UFO crash site???
Say what???
You know I had to turn around, go back, pull in and google this sitting right in the parking lot, such as it was.
I must admit, it would be very amusing if this peninsula wound up being within Philippe Mius’s Barony, or even better yet, where his Manor House sat. Shag Harbour is about 20 miles from Fort LaTour and looks to be too far south.
This history doesn’t date to Philippe, of course, but it’s fascinating and fun nonetheless.
Can you imagine being someone in the mid-late 1600s and witnessing something like this? You would think you had lost your mind.
Maybe the aliens will clue us in to where that elusive manor house was located.

By J5255 – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=62806794
This aerial view of Shag Harbour does highlight its prominent location.
Headed East, Towards Barrington
Beyond Shag Harbour, angling east, the entire coastline is peppered with tiny islands and spits of land reaching out into the sea.
I would think that navigating this area would be treacherous, and that most boats and probably all ships would want to stay in deeper waters given the danger presented by rocks, tides and storms. Perhaps this is another good argument for someplace in Pubnico Harbour or Upper Woods Harbour as a relatively safe location for the manor house, which was also a trading post. Once you threaded your way into the harbour, it was probably relatively safe there.
No aliens or UFOs at the next pulloff, just lobsters.
I followed the coastline to Barrington because the most expeditious return route was overland, not back up the coast. We do know that in 1699, Philippe’s son, probably Abraham, was living here with his family, according to Villebon.
You never know what you’re going to see. Barrington is a cute little seaport town.
Headed Back
Around noon, I headed back to the Pubnico fire station for an educational program in the afternoon. I wanted to talk with my friend, Chris Boudreau, a local historian who studies and writes about the Native people in the region and is known for his relentless research. He, too, has been searching for the Muis Manor House.
Logic and a few pesky details that just would not shut up kept nagging at me.
Or, is that Philippe speaking quietly?
The West Side of Pubnico
The Museum, Father d’Entremont, Margaret Coleman and others tell us that Philippe’s manor house was on the east side of the harbour, near or above Hipson’s Bridge, but what if they were mistaken?
We need to consider other possibilities about where Philippe Mius’s manor house might have been.
Humor me for a minute. I can be tarred and feathered for heresy later.
Let’s look at maps that were drawn by cartographers and mariners who traversed those waters back when the Mius d’Entremont family lived there, and correlate them with the records we do have.
The 1672 Denys Map
Nicolas Denys, a seaman and trader with 40 years of experience navigating Acadian waters drew this map in 1672, two decades after Philippe Mius received his barony and built his manor house, and a year after he is shown living here with his family in the 1671 census.
Remember, in the 1671 census, above, there was ONLY ONE HOUSE in “the Settlement of Pobomcou near the Island of Tousquet”, which would also have served as the trading post. There was literally nothing else to mark on a map in this entire region.
And whatever Denys marked on the map, it’s unquestionably NOT on the east side of the harbour. He simply would not make this kind of a mistake.
Denys drew SOMETHING substantial here, marking it with a flag, the same way he mapped other settlement locations in the inlets along the southern and eastern shores of Nova Scotia.
For reference, here’s Pubnico Harbour today.
So, I have questions?
If this is NOT Philippe Mius’s manor house or trading post on Denys’s map, what would it have been?
Given Le Cap-Naigre’s location, the flag is too far west to be Fort La Tour, and the surrounding topography looks different. Pubnico Harbour begins with a stream at the head, and so does this harbour on the map.
In the 1671 census, no Acadians are shown living at Port La Tour, or anyplace on Cape Sable.
There is one family in “the Settlement at Cape Neigre” and there is one man, wife and one child at Riviere aux Rochelois. So, we know that this area writ large wasn’t simply forgotten.
On the other hand, Philippe Mius, squire, Sieur de Landremont, age 62, is shown living at “The Settlement of Pobomcou near the Island of Tousquet” with his wife and children. He owned a substantial amount of livestock.
Given that Philippe’s land constitutes a seigneury, if Denys was going to mark one location in this region, what location would be more important?
Denys arrived in Acadia in 1632 and sailed regularly throughout this region, threading between the rocks and islands as he traversed the waters between the eastern-most islands and inlets, Le Have and Port Royal, engaging in the lumber, fishing, and fur trades. He had more experience in these waters than anyone else.
Denys was probably quite pleased when Mius built his home there, as it gave Denys and the other traders not only another trading site, but safe and enjoyable accommodations. Mius and his family were probably very glad to see Denys for European company, and for the news he would bring.
Pobomcoup was extremely isolated.
So, let’s say for a minute that Denys is accurately marking where Mius lives. And let’s also say that maybe Mius’s mill is eventually located across the harbour at Hipson’s Bridge, but Philippe doesn’t live in that location and in 1671, there’s no need for a mill yet. Only Philippe and his family live here and they have no land under cultivation, even 18 years after receiving the seigneury. There’s absolutely no need at this point for cultivated land because this is a maritime economy.
I’ve overlaid a contemporary map with the Denys map. We can’t tell for sure, but it looks like the creek that eventually ran beneath Hipson’s Bridge is marked on the right hand side, alove the flag.
If Denys is marking a location on the west side of Pubnico, where might that be today, based on the shape of the shoreline in his 1672 map?
Considering the major features, it looks like the flag could be somewhere in Middle West Pubnico.
Zooming in on this aerial map, it looks like the flag was planted someplace near D’Eon Boatbuilding.
Here’s d’Eon Boatbuilding today. They apparently thought this was a good location, too.
If Denys wasn’t marking the Mius Manor House, what was he marking that would be more important than the manor house?
Given that we don’t actually know where that 6 meters in the 1686 census was being measured from, other than generally Cape Sable, how far from the end of Cape Sable Island is this location in West Pubnico? About 23 miles, which is almost exactly 6 leagues. In a census, it makes sense to measure to the manor house.
Using Villebon’s number, 18 miles is fairly close too.
Denys’s 1672 map wasn’t the only map that showed homes or settlements at Pubnico, but there’s one other thing to consider, too.
Possible Dutch Attack in 1674
It was reported by George S. Brown in his 1888 book, Yarmouth, Nova Scotia: A Sequel to Campbell’s History, that when the Dutch attacked portions of Nova Scotia along the coast in 1674, that Pubnico was among the settlements that were burned, along with Fort Pentajouet and Fort Jemsey, about 30 miles upriver from St. John, NB.
This was given as a possible reason that Philippe Mius D’Entremont relocated to Port Royal where he was found in the 1678 census, a widower, with his children.
The more likely reason he is living in Port Royal is because he was appointed as the King’s Attorney in 1670, but then again, we don’t know what was happening in Pobomcoup. He’s living there in 1671, after he was appointed.
When he relocated to Port Royal, sometime before the 1678 census, did he leave the manor house entirely unattended?
If it had been attacked and burned in 1674, it could have been being rebuilt. If it was being rebuilt, it could have been built in a different location. Let’s see if later maps might clarify.
The 1689 Nolin Map
This 1689 map by Jean Baptiste Nolin and others shows Point Lomeron in place of Fort LaTour, which may offer a hint as to the history of Fort LaTour, but doesn’t resolve Poboncou, which is shown clearly. No habitations are shown anyplace, though.
1733 Popple Map
This 1733 map by David Popple shows the area, but it does not show any settlements at Pubnico, nor does it show Forbes Point or Pubnico any more clearly.
The 1734 Southack Map
In 1734, Cyprian Southack, an English cartographer, drew another, more detailed map which you can view, here.
Oh, and Southack was also a pirate, so his maps and who lived where were VERY important to him – one might say critical to his survival!
The Southack map shows very specific information about the Pubnico area. First, notice that you can see Cape Negro Harbour and where the Indians are living.
Then, moving slightly left (west), we see Port LaTore, plus the fort, so we know exactly where that’s located.
Southack’s notes say:
Port Latore Harbour good for small vessels and a road for ships some marsh and good land for farming. Cod fishing and making of it. Woodland family at Fort here.
In maritime ship’s parlance, roads were paths in the water. In other words, essentially, early shipping lanes.
Then, midmap, we see more French Inhabitants just above the Cape Sable Island, probably at present-day Barrington.
This all maps quite well, then we see the large peninsula which is largely undeveloped. The road along the water today skirts Bear Point, then to Shag Harbour, around the end of Wood’s Harbour, and then on up along the east side of Pubnico.
Southack’s writing in the lower undeveloped area on the map says:
East and west passage of Cape Sables is difficult navigation but for small vessels trade if peac (sic) with ye Indians. Cod fishing good farming and making of it woodland.
If you look to the left, you’ll see the Tuckett’s Islands, to the west of “Pobencuque” which is Pubnico.
To the right of the Pobencuque peninsula is a river and the writing says:
Pubencuque River small but fine land for farming navigable for small vessels is fish woodland.
However, the end of Pubnico and the left side of the uninhabited peninsula is not the same shape as today. Keep in mind that the dotted lines indicate sandy areas, and the plusses indicate rocks, so these are all areas to avoid.
Islands are islands – BUT – and this is a very big but, the coastline changes with storms. And Atlantic storms can be absolutely brutal. Parts of Fore Anne in Annapolis Royal and the fort at LaHave have both washed away due to coastal erosion.
This is the second map on which the Pubnico area does not look the same as today.
Perhaps, maybe even more important, there TWO inhabited areas shown, one on either side of the mouth of the “river”. By 1734, this makes sense because the village had expanded. We know there’s a mill on the right side, based on the millstone discovery, but we don’t know a lot more. The 1758 description of the Expulsion also tells us there is an aggregation of houses on the east side, and at least a few houses on the west side of the harbour, towards the southern end of the peninsula where the Historic Acadian Village is located today, beside the old cemetery.
For what it’s worth, the Old Cemetery mentioned is also on a knoll that overlooks the harbour, just a mile or so south of d’Eon Boatbuilding.
By 1734, Philippe Mius’s son, Jacques Mius d’Entremont, who had inherited the Barony, was still living at Pobomcoup. He died between 1735 and 1736. His children had already married and given him grandchildren, so there would have been several homes in the village.
I’m going to compare the two maps and mark the areas that I can easily correlate.
- Cape Sable Island is easy, but it’s even a different shape, which illustrates the power of the sea.
- Bear Point
- Pubnico, but where on Pubnico?
Today, the Pubnico peninsula is long and skinny. Was the harbour truly more of a river back in the 1600s and 1700s?
And where is Forbes Point on the 1734 map? Has the shoreline been substantially resculpted?
And now the biggest question of all?
Were those two houses, representing settlements:
- At Forbes Point, and across Woods Harbour? Shown with red arrows.
- Or were they up at Pubnico, and across Pubnico Harbour from each other? This would correlate to approximately the Acadian Heritage Village and maybe the lighthouse across the harbour.
- Someplace else? But where.
Neither one is shown as far north as Hibson’s Bridge.
If, after the Acadians were expelled, the English took the farms that already existed, then why did no one record taking the land of the manor house?
My head aches!
Are there other maps?
Undated 1710-1749 French Map
This undated French map just might hold the answer – sort of. If not the answer, then at least an extremely important clue.
What can we tell? We know for sure that this map was drawn after 1710 when Port Royal was renamed Annapolis Royal. Grand Pre is shown, as are houses at Pisiquid. Halifax, not shown, was formed in 1749.
So, based on these clues, the map was drawn sometime between 1710 and 1749, which is a fairly wide range – but it’s still before the Acadian Expulsion began in 1755. And it’s drawn by a French cartographer which might indicate that the French were still hoping to recapture Acadia from the English. They would have taken great care to document the French/Acadian locations and settlements.
The single most important clue may be that there are two “structures” shown at Pubnico. A settlement area, like other mapped settlement areas, AND a larger building that could well represent the manor house. However, this map very clearly shows both structures on the left, or west, side of the river/harbor.
If you zoom in on the larger structure, you can see what looks to be a row of windows at the upper level, and maybe 4 chimneys.
This proves quite confusing when compared to other sources indicating that the manor house was on the right side of the Harbor at Hipson’s Bridge.
I’ve overlaid the contemporary map on top of the French map. The southern habitation looks to be at the location of the Old Cemetery, as described by Major Morris in 1758. However, the upper, larger structure looks like it would be located roughly someplace between the Head of Pubnico, the Argyle by the Sea Bed and Breakfast, and the upper part of West Pubnico.
What else that large would have been located there?
While this map is incredibly exciting, we aren’t finished yet!
1755 English Map
Indeed, those scoundrels, the British, drew maps too. After all, if you were going to go around the countryside expelling the French inhabitants, it was important to know exactly where they were – and in as much detail as possible.
This amazingly detailed 1755 map was drawn by the British when they were planning the Acadian Expulsion, so the location of forts, farms, and settlements is incredibly precise, as can be confirmed by comparison to what we know of the settlements at Port Royal and Minas, along with the description of what occurred, and where, at Pubnico. It shows us where the d’Entremont settlements were located in 1755, but not where the original manor house was located, and the coastline detail is awful.
However, of the two settlements on the right side of the “river,” the upper one could well be Hipson’s Brook. This map, which shows four settlements on both sides of the harbor, agrees generally with the description of the 1758 Expulsion led by Major Morris, except there are four settlement areas, not two.
1761 Dutch Map
This 1761 Dutch map shows a settlement at both Port LaTour and Pubnico, but very little shoreline detail. This is after the 1758 English expulsion, but prior to the Acadian resettlement that began in 1767.
The settlement is shown on the left side of the harbour, but it’s unclear if this is the original Acadian settlement, or if the English had begun to farm the old Acadian homesites that they had been awarded.
1768 Montresor Map
This 1768 map by John Montresor shows the area in much clearer detail, but no settlement areas.
1778 Mitchell Map
This 1778 map by John Mitchell shows something that looks to represent a settlement at both Fort LaTour and Pubnico, but the shoreline is anything but accurate.
1778 would be 18 years after English settlement had begun, and also a decade after some of the Acadian families had returned.
1778 Zatta Map
This 1778 map by Presso Antonio Zatta is almost identical, although I can see the settlements more clearly. The settlement at Pobomcoup does seem to be on the west side of the harbour.
Conflicting Information
We have a lot of information, but much of it seems to conflict.
Let’s review what we have.
| Source | Date | Location | Notes |
| Margaret Coleman quoting Clement Cormier, d’Entremont’s biographer | Published in 1967 | Feudal castle was built near the entry to the natural harbour of Pubnico, on the east side. | Acadian Settlement in the Atlantic Provinces – Hipson’s Bridge is not near the entry to the harbour |
| History of the County of Yarmouth by Rev. John Roy Campbell | Published in 1876 | On “a beautiful knoll” a chapel was built a few years before the expulsion. Long before that time, a manor house was built by Philippe Mius d’Entremont, at a short distance from the hill, opposite to the shore. Not too many years ago, one could feel under his feet what remained of its foundation. | Presume this means on the side of the hill away from the ocean? |
| Terrain Map | 2026 | Best manor house candidate site on the harbour’s east side is the knoll above and west of Hipson’s Bridge and railroad bridge | Several west side candidate sites, including the Acadian Village site and others north beyond the old post office |
| Philippe Mius d’Entremont appointed King’s Attorney | 1670 | ||
| 1671 Census | 1671 | Philippe Mius d’Entremont is the only home in Pobomcoup | |
| 1672 Denys Map | 1672 | Structure on left (west) side of what appears to be Pubnico Harbour | Maybe near D’Eon Boatbuilding today, see map overlay |
| Possible burning of Pubnico | 1674 | Possible Dutch attack and burning of settlement | If so, the manor house was the only residence recorded in the 1671 census |
| 1678 Census – no areas other than Port Royal shown | 1678 | Philippe Mius d’Entremont living in Port Royal, a widower, with his children | Either the manor house is empty in Pobomcoup, or Philippe Jr., missing from census with first wife, may be there – no census recorded outside of Port Royal |
| 1686 Census | 1686 | A description of the coast in 1686 says that at “poubonicoeur”, 6 leagues from Cape Sable, there were five families composed of 18 people. | Cape Sable in that era was considered everything from Fort LaTour through Pobomcoup. Would have been measured from homesites. |
| 1686 Census | 1686 | Philippe Mius Sr. is in Port Royal. Sons Jacque & Abraham are living at Pobomcoup | Total of 6 houses |
| 1689 Nolin Map | 1689 | No settlements shown | |
| 1699 Villebon Journal | 1699 | 5.25 leagues Poboncoup to Cape Sable, and 3 more leagues to Port LaTour – Villebon states d’Entremont’s son lives at Pobomcoup, and that there’s a water mill | This translates to 18 statue miles, plus 10 additional miles, for a total of 28 miles from Poboncoup to Port LaTour |
| 1733 Popple Map | 1733 | No settlements shown | |
| 1734 Southack Map | 1734 | Appears to be a settlement on both sides of harbour | |
| 1710-1749 French Map | 1710-1749 | Shows two settlement icons, one larger and one smaller. Both on the left or west side. | See map overlays |
| 1755 English Map | 1755 | Shows 4 “Vil Dentremont’ settlement on both sides | Would be Village Dentremont. |
| 1758 Expulsion | 1758 | Describes 2 houses at old cemetery (Acadian Heritage Village) and burning the rest of the settlement including the manor house and mill on the east side of the harbour | From father d’Entremont’s article. Need to find Major Roger Morris’s original descriptions to clarify what he said about the church and manor house. |
| 1761 Dutch Map | 1761 | Settlement on the left or west side of the harbour. | |
| 1768 Montresor Map | 1768 | No settlements shown | |
| 1778 Mitchell Map | 1778 | Settlement on the left or west side. | |
| 1778 Zatta Map | 1778 | Settlement on the left or west side of the harbour | |
| D’Entremont article from Campbell book – Cemetery disturbed when railroad built | 1896 | At the foot of the hill, bones from the old cemetery were found when the railroad was built near Hipson’s Bridge in 1896/1897 | Stones taken about 300 meters south to build Jones Wharf |
| Millstone found | 1997 | Hipson’s Bridge | |
| Google Map | 2026 | Hipson’s Bridge to end of Cape Sable Island – 22 statute miles | 6 nautical leagues is about 22 statute miles which is what the Google Maps measure tool uses |
| Google Map | 2026 | Hipson’s Bridge to Fort LaTour – 34 miles | About 34 miles |
| Google Map | 2026 | Fort LaTour to Lighthouse Point – 28 miles | About 28 miles |
| Google Map | 2026 | Fort LaTour to Wood’s Harbour – 24 miles | About 24 miles |
| Google Map | 2026 | Fort LaTour to Shag Harbour – 20 miles | About 20 miles |
See maps for other distances.
We have a total of 11 contemporaneous maps. Of those:
- 3 maps have no settlements shown, so can be disregarded
- 5 maps; 1672, undated French map 1710-1748, 1761, and two in 1778 show a settlement or settlements on the left or west side of the harbour
- 1 map, the undated French map drawn between 1710-1748, shows two “structures” that mark settlements, one smaller and one larger, both on the west side of the harbour
- 2 later maps, 1734 and 1755, show settlements on both sides of the harbour
- No early maps show a settlement on the east side of the harbour, and none shows a settlement on the east side alone
I have more questions.
- Given the map evidence, should consideration be given to the possibility that the original Manor House was built on the west side of the harbour?
- Is it possible that the original manor house burned in 1674 and was rebuilt in a second location?
- Has the original focus been on Hipson’s Brook because of the Campbell and Coleman/Cormier documents published in 1876 and 1987, respectively?
- Was the finding of the millstone viewed as confirmation for those earlier publications, even though nothing more than the stone was discovered?
- Has consideration been given that the manor house and the mill may not have been in the same location?
- If the manor house foundation could still be felt on the knoll, has a concerted effort been undertaken to evaluate the potential “knolls,” as described by Rev. Campbell in 1876?
- Specifically, has the knoll above and to the west of the bridges been evaluated?
- In the documentary, Father d’Entremont stated that some of the areas had been surveyed, and absolutely nothing was found. It appeared in the video that he may have been standing just south of the railroad bridge on the harbor side. Alternatively, it could have been on the knoll just north and west of the bridges. How extensive was that evaluation?
- How thorough was the search for evidence of the mill at and upstream of Hipson’s Bridge?
- Were rocks from the mill foundation and dam used in the construction of Hipson’s Bridge, which is very unique.
- Is there any more detailed description or knowledge of where those skeletal remains were found?
- Would aerial ground penetrating radar (LIDAR-light detection and ranging) be beneficial today?
- Would GPR, ground penetrating radar on the ground be beneficial in some areas, particularly following LIDAR results?
- Given various distance measurements resulting from the two different descriptions, particularly the 28 miles measurement from Port LaTour to Pobomcoup which terminates at approximately LightHouse Point, along with the various maps, should searching be considered further south than Hipson’s Bridge? And/or on the west side of the harbour, based on the 1672 Danys map?
- Given the large structure on the French map, should the area closer to the Head of Pubnico be considered possible for the manor house?
- Did the 6 leagues from Cape Sable to Pobomcoup refer to the beginning of the Mius grant, which was about 3 by 22 miles, or did it reference the distance to the manor house? From the end of Cape Sable Point to Hipson’s Bridge is about 22 miles.
- How much coastline change and erosion has occurred since 1758? In other words, is there any possibility that the manor house, the mill, or the village surrounding the manor house on the east side of the harbour is now underwater?
- Are there any coordinated projects in place or underway to answer these questions?
I was extremely perplexed and frustrated by this conflicting information, not to mention maps that don’t align.
As I listened to my friend, Chris, at the lecture given at the local fire station in the afternoon, I reflected upon the possibilities and opportunities that exist to find Philippe Mius d’Entremont’s Manor House.
So much of the history of Pubnico revolves Philippe MIus d’Entremont, the ancestor of nearly everyone who lives there, Philippe Mius d’Entremont. And yet we can’t find his manor house. This feels like one huge scavenger hunt.
Chris doesn’t have the answer either, at least not yet, but thankfully, he and others continue to search. Maybe Philippe can drop us a hint or two!
Day’s End
As I stood outside, looking across the harbour at Hipson’s Bridge, I saw the far shore with new eyes. I wanted Philippe’s manor house to be standing there, but I was now more skeptical than ever. The evidence we do have, especially that 1672 map, raises the very real possibility that Philippe Mius d’Entremont’s Manor House was built on the west side, not the east.
Yet, it’s exactly six leagues from the end of Cape Sable Island to Hipson Bridge, a distance state in the 1686 census. But it’s also that same distance to the west side shore, across from Hipson’s Bridge. Unfortunately, we really don’t know where they were measuring “from” at Cape Sable.
The 1734 Southack map suggests that the settlement may have been further south. Nautical measurements suggest the same thing, but are inconclusive.
The French map suggests that one settlement was located near the Old Cemetery, but the manor house location is shown further north on the west side, perhaps on high ground right where I’m standing.
Given the number of maps showing the settlement on the west side, it could be anyplace along the western shoreline, but all things considered, it’s likely to be further south.
In 1758, Major Morris said he followed the Acadians to Pubnico Head, and then into the woods where he lost them. He never said where he followed them from.
Hipson’s Bridge makes perfect sense for the mill, but that doesn’t mean the manor house was there. Yet, it might have been built on that beautiful knoll.
My head was spinning, trying to assimilate everything I had learned, and discoveries made. I was experiencing information overload. I had even more questions, but we had no answers
It was time for dinner.
Last Dinner in Pubnico
There was only one restaurant in Pubnico left to try, so I headed south to the end of the peninsula and treated myself to fine maritime fare.
Lovely seafood chowder and a different style lobster roll at the Dennis Point Café. I watched the fleet come in for the day with rain and fog following right behind.
I needed to get back to the old post office and pack, because I was heading out first thing in the morning.
The winds were increasing, and the weather was looking quite ominous.
After all this, it seemed only fitting to find myself in the middle of the same hurricane I escaped a week earlier along the east coast of the US.
Apparently, you can run, but you can’t hide. I hope that’s true of Philippe and his manor house, too.
Day 8 – Hurricane Debby
Morning dawned with the winds announcing Hurricane Debby’s arrival. I heard her the minute I opened my eyes. Her wailing wrath was descending upon us, heralded by driving wind, rain, and fog.
Somehow experiencing both extremes, only a few hours apart, seemed par for the course along the Atlantic coast. Perhaps Philippe wanted to make sure I truly understood authentic Acadian maritime life.
It was time to head for Annapolis Royal – in the pouring rain as I drove along the coast. The road hugged the shore much of the way.
There were places I had to pull over because I simply couldn’t see through the sheets of rain. My windshield wipers were slapping away at top speed, but seemed entirely useless. There was just too much water.
The road from Pubnico to Annapolis Royal runs alongside the coastline, meaning the roiling water and white-capped waves reached perilously close in some places.
At one point, the wind slammed the car door shut on my leg as I was trying to get out of the vehicle. The salty rain was blowing straight sideways so hard that it stung my eyes and face like a thousand tiny needles. More challenging yet, there was hardly anyplace open, for anything, including fuel, food, or a restroom.
Fortunately, I found one gas station open – and they had two identical sandwiches left in a small deli case near the cashier. I always enjoy adventure eating when I travel. The owner said he didn’t mean to rush me – but he needed to close – so how could he help me?
I purchased a local sandwich called a Donair, because that’s all there was. He gave me some chips and we laughted as I purchased water. I had a picnic in my car as I watched him wave and drive away, feeling ever more alone.
As it turns out, Donairs are unique to this part of Nova Scotia. I don’t know how to begin to describe it.
It looks something like a gyro but doesn’t taste like a gyro, and has a very unique sauce that kind of looks like mayo, but doesn’t taste like mayo. Locals love them.
I tried Donairs in different locations, and they all tasted different from each other, too.
I had planned to hop from quilt shop to quilt shop throughout Nova Scotia during my journey. I was sure, given that everything else was closed, the quilt shops would be too. Just in case, I called anyway, and one lady whose shop, Panier D’Art, was behind her home said simply, “Come right ahead. Drive on around back.”
Not only was her shop delightful, with such a nice selection of fabrics, but she was also extremely understanding and helpful. Warm, welcoming, friendly, and kind. Quilters just never fail each other! It was the refuge I needed.
I might or might not have been stress-purchasing, and I might or might not have had to ship a box of fabric home😊
This stool is one of her own artistic creations! It’s a good thing it wasn’t for sale, or I would have been trying to figure out how to ship it home too.
The quilt shop was right across the road from the ocean, so she wrapped my purchases tightly in plastic so my fabric wouldn’t get soaked as I bolted for the car.
All I can say is that Nova Scotia hospitality is second to none!
Alas, it was time to head back out into the storm.
As I opened the door to step back outside, I realized that the storm had intensified. Sheets of rain were whipping in blinding bands, followed by a few minutes of respite before the next assault arrived. I could no longer tell if the road was actually running directly alongside the shoreline, or if there was some buffer of land between me and the ocean. Water was pooled on and sometimes washing across the pavement. I couldn’t tell what was rain, and what was seawater.
I was becoming increasingly uncomfortable and pulled into a parking lot to wait a few minutes.
I couldn’t help but think about Philippe and the Acadians. How many died in fearful weather like this? Is this what happened to some of the older boys and men who simply disappear from the records, with no trace?
Did they go fishing and never come back?
Everyone in Pubnico and along that coast fished.
Of course, it was even worse ON the water. Infinitely worse. I shudder to think.
The search-and-rescue teams were ready and waiting. I hope no fishermen were out there.
Hurricanes, unknown in France but all too familiar in Acadia, must have been a brutal revelation for Philippe – and without the benefit of weather forecasts, warnings or rescue crews.
I don’t know if he was brave, fortunate, foolhearty or blessed. Maybe all of the above.
I’m reminded just how lucky Philippe’s descendants are to be here! Just one stroke of bad luck, a swamped ship, broken mast, horrific storm or rogue wave – and we wouldn’t be.
Trying to navigate that angry storm, I felt, if only for a moment, the world he faced – and a taste of the peril he surely experienced. A fleeting glimpse of life alone on these shores.
One fragile human staring the storm straight in the face.
_____________________________________________________________
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- MyHeritage Omni comprehensive “everything included” subscription plan
- Newspapers.com – Search newspapers for your ancestors
- NewspaperArchive – Search different newspapers for your ancestors
My Books
- DNA for Native American Genealogy – by Roberta Estes, for those ordering the e-book from anyplace, or paperback within the United States
- DNA for Native American Genealogy – for those ordering the paperback outside the US
- The Complete Guide to FamilyTreeDNA – Y-DNA, Mitochondrial, Autosomal and X-DNA – for those ordering the e-book from anyplace, or paperback within the United States
- The Complete Guide to FamilyTreeDNA – Y-DNA, Mitochondrial, Autosomal and X-DNA for those ordering the paperback from outside the US
Genealogy Books
- Genealogical.com – Lots of wonderful genealogy research books
- American Ancestors – Wonderful selection of genealogy books
Genealogy Research
- Legacy Tree Genealogists – Professional genealogy research













































































































































































































































































































































































